SEWING MY STASH | MCCALL'S 8013

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

Happy New Year! Baby it’s still cold outside! And this cozy pink coat is doing its job in keeping me warm, classy, and stylish, all at the same time. Oh, how I LOVE my new coat!

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

I haven’t sewn a coat in several years but this is my second pink one. Check out the first PINK COAT I made. There’s just something so feminine about a pink coat. Being able to sew my own clothes affords me the opportunity to make coats in colors that aren’t easily available in ready-to-wear. 

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

I’m happy to say that I accomplished my goal and sewed 22 garments from patterns that I already have in my stash in the year 2022. It felt so good that I’ve decided to repeat the goal this year. So, I will be sewing 23 patterns from my stash in the year 2023. Do you want to join me? Let’s Go! I’ve got 2 down and 21 to go. Yes, I’m wearing two new garments in this post.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

PATTERN INFORMATION

McCall’s 8013 is a fully lined, loose-fitting coat with inseam pockets, thread belt loops and a tie belt. Views B and C have a back vent, and View D is a detachable fur collar with elastic loops.

There are three different lengths to choose from; short, medium, and long. I sewed View B, the medium length.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

The pattern is currently available on Simplicity’s website.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

McCall’s rates the pattern as AVERAGE. I recommend this coat pattern for Intermediate and above sewing levels. Don’t attempt this project as a new beginner. If you don’t know how to sew yet, check out my Beginner’s Sewing Course and learn the basics first.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

Inside the Garment

Now, let’s take a look at the inside of the coat. I used my Baby Lock Soprano to sew the entire coat. Because the fabric is so thick, I set the stitch length to a 3.5mm and used a Universal Size 90/14 machine needle for the outer fabric. For the lining, I switched to a 2.5mm stitch length and Jersey Ballpoint Size 70/10 needle.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

I’ve shared how helpful the walking foot can be when sewing with knit fabrics. Well, it’s equally as beneficial when sewing with thick fabrics. It does an excellent job of feeding the top layer through evenly with the bottom layer. 

Fabric Options

The suggested fabrics for the coat are: Wool Blends, Wool Flannel, Tweed, and Brocade. They suggest lining fabrics to line the coat.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

I used this beautiful Bella Boucle in Blush that I purchased from Melanated Fabrics over a year ago when I was in Atlanta. It’s a 100% Polyester Boucle with 4-Way Stretch. As of today (1/19/23), the time of this post, they actually do have the fabric in stock and it’s on sale.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

Because the Boucle is so thick, I decided to go with a very lightweight knit fabric for the lining. I keep this type of fabric on hand because I really like to line my garments with knits most of the time. There are exceptions, but most of my wovens are lined with knit fabric. It works and feels good against my skin.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

Boucle Fabric Sewing Tips

Boucle is a very thick fabric, therefore it requires extra care for piecing and darts. I found that the best way to hold the fabric pieces together is by using clips instead of pins. Or, if you’re confident in your skills, you can eliminate this step and sew without pins or clips.

Sewing darts in Boucle will yield bulk in the dart area. So, if you press the dart to one side, as instructed, you will get a noticeable hump or ridge on the outside of the fabric. To prevent that from happening, follow the following steps.

  1. Press Dart Flat

2. Cut Dart Open as far as possible

3. Press Dart Flat where cut open, using tip of iron. If you have a pressing rod/wooden dowel, us that underneath dart to prevent flattening out the pile on the right side.

4. Press Tip of Dart to one side

Finished Dart – Do not press on textured side of Boucle to prevent flattening the pile.

Alterations Information

I cut a size Medium and did not make any adjustments to the pattern. However, I did shorten the hem (folded up 2”) after the lining was sewn because I thought I made a mistake with the lining vent. I realized later that it actually wasn’t a mistake but I liked the hem length, so I left it shorter.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

Because I shortened the hem, I didn’t feel the need for the fourth button, so I eliminated it.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

Notions Information

The suggested notions are 1 ⅛” – 1 ¼” buttons, shoulder pads, sleeveheads. (I didn’t use the sleeveheads.) The fur collar suggestions are elastic cord and ½” – ⅝” buttons. I purchased 1 ⅛” self-covered buttons and used the Boucle to make buttons to match the coat. A first, I thought the fabric would be too thick to cover the buttons, but it worked out just fine. I think they’re a very classic look and elevate the style of the garment. 

Covered Buttons
SEWING MY STASH | 8013

My Plans for the Garment

This one will be around for a long time and will be worn anytime I want to look extra elegant while keeping warm during the cold months. I’m actually wearing it out today to a business meeting as styled in the photos.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

Styling Options

I didn’t take photos of the coat with different outfits but it can be worn with ANYTHING. I want a new pair of boots because all mine are black. I think a light beige boot and beautiful scarf around the neck would look very elegant. A pair of gray boots and matching body con dress would look nice with the coat.

Styling Option #1

Today, I’m wearing the coat with a pair of White Denim Pants that I made in 2020. You can see all the details for the pants in this BLOG POST. I whipped up a Nikko Top from True Bias Patterns to wear with the pants and coat today. It’s a super easy pattern and I finished it in about 2 hours. So this top is Pattern #2 for 2023. The beige pumps are perfect to complete the soft, feminine look I wanted to create. I completed the look with a FOLD OVER CLUTCH BAG that I made last year. I wanted to keep the jewelry simple and minimal, so I wore a pair of rhinestone stud earrings, and a Jesus Rules rhinestone pin that I’ve had for many years. I purchased it from a local tea shop in my town that is no longer in business.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013
SEWING MY STASH | 8013
SEWING MY STASH | 8013

How would you wear the garment?

Would you sew this coat? Do you have the pattern? Talk to me in the comments. I would love to hear from you.

SEWING MY STASH | 8013

Don't Forget your Sewing Project Checklist

Did you know that I created a Sewing Project Checklist to help you stay organized while sewing your garments? If you missed the video where I shared 3 Steps to Time Saving Sewing for Beginners, check it out to learn how you can streamline your sewing process. Tap the link below to get a Free PDF copy of the Checklist.

Thanks for stopping by,


Remember: When you live in your DESIGN, it is from there that God SHINES! 


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This Post Has 38 Comments

  1. Barb

    I didn’t know that a knit fabric can be used as lining fabric. What type of knit fabric did you use for the coat? Which by the way is absolutely beautiful!!!

    1. Anita Morris

      Hi Barb! Yes, I don’t think it’s recommended on the pattern envelopes but I do it all the time. It’s a very lightweight knit that I’ve had in my fabric stash for a very long time.

  2. Kristin

    I love this coat! I think it would be cute in fleece for an every day coat. I have never made a coat and might start with the simple wrap style in fleece.

    1. Anita Morris

      Yes, I think this would look nice in a fleece fabric too. Have fun making your wrap coat.

  3. Mary

    Love it, and so perfect

  4. Dara

    Happy New Year to your family Anita! Your outfit is Beautiful and your Smile is the Icing on the cake!

    1. Anita Morris

      Dara!!! Thank you so much! You just made me smile again. 💕💕💕

  5. Mary Jean Cunningham

    Happy New Year, Anita, and I hope it is a very good and blessed one for you and all your family! You look so cozy and chic as well as warm in that coat and the color is a welcome change from the usual drab colors of winter, plus it will be lovely on chillly spring days as well – we used to have spring coats when I was young, but I do not really see them anymore, and your beautiful coat reminded me of those pretty spring/Easter coats every woman and girl wore back in the day when it was technically spring but often still quite cold (I live in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) – my mother used to make them for us all and boucle was a favorite fabric for that purpose. Your coat will also go well with navy, gray, black, brown just to name a few – light pink is a more versatile color than you might think at first!

    1. Anita Morris

      Oh, Mary, I got a warm feeling as I read of your childhood memories of spring coats. You’re right, I can wear this one into spring with so many other colors. Thank you for sharing your memory. I’m so happy to have you here.

  6. Gwendolyn

    Looking good Anita! You did a fantastic job inside and out!

  7. Caroll

    Go head with your bad self, Anita! I love, love it! Beautiful color and fit. I see that “Jesus Rules” pin. Great job a usual.

    1. Anita Morris

      Caroll!!! 😂 I’m so in LOVE with this coat! Thank you.💕

  8. Marguerite

    Happy New Year! Lovely coat and it looks amazing on you! I really appreciate all your sewing tips especially using the walking foot with thicker fabrics – never thought of that. I definitely want to make this or a similar coat. Living in south Texas the shorter coat works best for our climate. Thank you for sharing this and all your other projects with us. Looking forward to your next sewing project!

    1. Anita Morris

      Thank you so much, Margerite! I’m so glad you appreciate the tips I share. I really do enjoy putting the blog posts together. You are very welcome, sister. I can’t wait to share the next project.

  9. De Campbell

    Happy New Year, Anita!! This is a gorgeous look – so classy and chic!! I can hardly wait to see your 2023 sewing projects. You’ve started off with a bang and I’m so excited for what’s to come. I plan to sew a few pieces for myself this year but I doubt if it will be 23😂 I have a piece of herringbone fabric I want to use for a coat; do you think this pattern is a good choice for herringbone? It’s my goal to use a coat pattern with as few pieces as possible when I do sew it. Nevertheless, you did a great job and selected a beautiful color. The outfit underneath is ideal. You, rock!!

    1. Anita Morris

      Thank you, De! Oh, yes, a herringbone will look AMAZING with this coat. It has simple lines with single darts at the shoulders front and back. You can’t see the darts on the front because the collar covers them. But you will see them on the back. I love that the pattern comes with its own lining pieces. Have fun sewing your coat, De.

  10. Vickie Skelley

    It’s gorgeous like you Anita.

  11. Stephanie

    That is such a beautiful coat. I haven’t made a coat in many years. I have so many RTW coats already. It helps that you look gorgeous in everything, you really have an eye for style. Happy 2023!

  12. Monica

    Very pretty and comfy!!! Perfect for colder weather. Anita you did an awesome job. I can see why it would be satisfying to sew this pattern, great accomplishment!!
    It has been cold here in Florida for sure.

  13. Sue

    Love it. You are so talented. I love seeing all your creations ❤️❤️❤️

  14. Doris Sheppard

    Happy New Year Anita. I love the coat and the whole outfit. I have a wrap coat pattern I plan to make but I want to do a muslin first to get the fit right since I’m using wool and don’t want to mess this fabric up. The pattern doesn’t call for a lining but I plan to line it because of the fabric I’m using., a black wool. Hopefully it will turn out as lovely as yours.🥰

    1. Anita Morris

      Doris, I’m glad you’re making a muslin first, because we’re serious about our fabric. I want to make a wrap coat one day. Have fun with yours.

  15. Mary Hayes

    Happy New Year to you, too, Anita. I love the coat and the the fabric. I will be getting that pattern. I enjoy making coats for myself. That sounds like a fun challenge, 23 pieces. Take care.
    Mary

  16. Helen Byrne

    I love the coat! What a pretty spring look. You are so versatile in your sewing skills. And that includes tailoring.

  17. Gloria Jackson

    Hi Angela, Really love your coat….i was wondering if you could do a video on how you made your buttonholes for the coat. Boucle is not an easy fabric for buttonholes. Hope you still have a remnant of the boucle 😉

    1. Anita Morris

      Hi Gloria! Thank you. Yes, you’re correct. Boucle is not easy to insert buttonholes. I actually think hand sewn buttonholes would be best, but I haven’t ventured into that skill yet. So I just used a buttonhole selection on my machine and helped the machine feed the fabric (even with the walking foot) because the feed dogs were not moving it. I should have adjusted my presser foot pressure, but I didn’t.

      1. Linda

        Beautiful coat! I really enjoy reading your blog because you provide so many details, i.e. stitch length, needle size and details on fabric etc selection along with useful suggestions and tips. I really like this pattern and agree it’s a classic silhouette that is timeless. I’m considering joining your sewing challenge this year.

        1. Anita Morris

          Thank you so much for this feedback, Linda! I’m really happy to hear that you appreciate the detail that I include in the blog posts. Yaaayyy!!! I’m so happy you’re considering joining me on my sewing challenge! 🤗

  18. Angela

    Anita, I love the coat, but can i have details on that clutch bag?

    1. Anita Morris

      Thank you Angela! I included a link above to the information about the clutch.