SEWING MY STASH | MCCALL'S 8013
Happy New Year! Baby it’s still cold outside! And this cozy pink coat is doing its job in keeping me warm, classy, and stylish, all at the same time. Oh, how I LOVE my new coat!
I haven’t sewn a coat in several years but this is my second pink one. Check out the first PINK COAT I made. There’s just something so feminine about a pink coat. Being able to sew my own clothes affords me the opportunity to make coats in colors that aren’t easily available in ready-to-wear.
I’m happy to say that I accomplished my goal and sewed 22 garments from patterns that I already have in my stash in the year 2022. It felt so good that I’ve decided to repeat the goal this year. So, I will be sewing 23 patterns from my stash in the year 2023. Do you want to join me? Let’s Go! I’ve got 2 down and 21 to go. Yes, I’m wearing two new garments in this post.
McCall’s 8013 is a fully lined, loose-fitting coat with inseam pockets, thread belt loops and a tie belt. Views B and C have a back vent, and View D is a detachable fur collar with elastic loops.
There are three different lengths to choose from; short, medium, and long. I sewed View B, the medium length.
The pattern is currently available on Simplicity’s website.
McCall’s rates the pattern as AVERAGE. I recommend this coat pattern for Intermediate and above sewing levels. Don’t attempt this project as a new beginner. If you don’t know how to sew yet, check out my Beginner’s Sewing Course and learn the basics first.
Inside the Garment
Now, let’s take a look at the inside of the coat. I used my Baby Lock Soprano to sew the entire coat. Because the fabric is so thick, I set the stitch length to a 3.5mm and used a Universal Size 90/14 machine needle for the outer fabric. For the lining, I switched to a 2.5mm stitch length and Jersey Ballpoint Size 70/10 needle.
I’ve shared how helpful the walking foot can be when sewing with knit fabrics. Well, it’s equally as beneficial when sewing with thick fabrics. It does an excellent job of feeding the top layer through evenly with the bottom layer.
The suggested fabrics for the coat are: Wool Blends, Wool Flannel, Tweed, and Brocade. They suggest lining fabrics to line the coat.
I used this beautiful Bella Boucle in Blush that I purchased from Melanated Fabrics over a year ago when I was in Atlanta. It’s a 100% Polyester Boucle with 4-Way Stretch. As of today (1/19/23), the time of this post, they actually do have the fabric in stock and it’s on sale.
Because the Boucle is so thick, I decided to go with a very lightweight knit fabric for the lining. I keep this type of fabric on hand because I really like to line my garments with knits most of the time. There are exceptions, but most of my wovens are lined with knit fabric. It works and feels good against my skin.
Boucle Fabric Sewing Tips
Boucle is a very thick fabric, therefore it requires extra care for piecing and darts. I found that the best way to hold the fabric pieces together is by using clips instead of pins. Or, if you’re confident in your skills, you can eliminate this step and sew without pins or clips.
Sewing darts in Boucle will yield bulk in the dart area. So, if you press the dart to one side, as instructed, you will get a noticeable hump or ridge on the outside of the fabric. To prevent that from happening, follow the following steps.
- Press Dart Flat
2. Cut Dart Open as far as possible
3. Press Dart Flat where cut open, using tip of iron. If you have a pressing rod/wooden dowel, us that underneath dart to prevent flattening out the pile on the right side.
4. Press Tip of Dart to one side
Finished Dart – Do not press on textured side of Boucle to prevent flattening the pile.
I cut a size Medium and did not make any adjustments to the pattern. However, I did shorten the hem (folded up 2”) after the lining was sewn because I thought I made a mistake with the lining vent. I realized later that it actually wasn’t a mistake but I liked the hem length, so I left it shorter.
Because I shortened the hem, I didn’t feel the need for the fourth button, so I eliminated it.
The suggested notions are 1 ⅛” – 1 ¼” buttons, shoulder pads, sleeveheads. (I didn’t use the sleeveheads.) The fur collar suggestions are elastic cord and ½” – ⅝” buttons. I purchased 1 ⅛” self-covered buttons and used the Boucle to make buttons to match the coat. A first, I thought the fabric would be too thick to cover the buttons, but it worked out just fine. I think they’re a very classic look and elevate the style of the garment.
My Plans for the Garment
This one will be around for a long time and will be worn anytime I want to look extra elegant while keeping warm during the cold months. I’m actually wearing it out today to a business meeting as styled in the photos.
I didn’t take photos of the coat with different outfits but it can be worn with ANYTHING. I want a new pair of boots because all mine are black. I think a light beige boot and beautiful scarf around the neck would look very elegant. A pair of gray boots and matching body con dress would look nice with the coat.
Styling Option #1
Today, I’m wearing the coat with a pair of White Denim Pants that I made in 2020. You can see all the details for the pants in this BLOG POST. I whipped up a Nikko Top from True Bias Patterns to wear with the pants and coat today. It’s a super easy pattern and I finished it in about 2 hours. So this top is Pattern #2 for 2023. The beige pumps are perfect to complete the soft, feminine look I wanted to create. I completed the look with a FOLD OVER CLUTCH BAG that I made last year. I wanted to keep the jewelry simple and minimal, so I wore a pair of rhinestone stud earrings, and a Jesus Rules rhinestone pin that I’ve had for many years. I purchased it from a local tea shop in my town that is no longer in business.
How would you wear the garment?
Would you sew this coat? Do you have the pattern? Talk to me in the comments. I would love to hear from you.
Don't Forget your Sewing Project Checklist
Did you know that I created a Sewing Project Checklist to help you stay organized while sewing your garments? If you missed the video where I shared 3 Steps to Time Saving Sewing for Beginners, check it out to learn how you can streamline your sewing process. Tap the link below to get a Free PDF copy of the Checklist.
Thanks for stopping by,
Remember: When you live in your DESIGN, it is from there that God SHINES!
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(DISCLAIMER: This blog post may contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission on qualifying purchases. All opinions in this post are my own.)