CHICAGO FROCKTAILS | MCCALL'S 7897
I attended my first Frocktails event, June 7th – 9th, in Chicago and it was a BLAST! Oh my goodness! Seeing so many SEW Sisters and Brothers in person was amazing. The theme was “The Blues Era” between 1920’s – 1960’s. The planning committee did an amazing job putting together a very memorable weekend for us. Yes, you heard correctly. This Frocktails covered the entire weekend. Friday was the All White Boat Cruise (which I did not attend). Saturday was the Frocktails party. Then, on Sunday, we went fabric shopping. Oh, what a time we had! I’ll share more about the weekend later, but first let’s get into what I wore to Chicago Frocktails. Warning: This blog post is long and photo heavy as I’m sharing lots of pictures from the event and the dress.
Pattern Information
When I decided to attend the event at the last minute, I went through my pattern collection and came across MCCALL’S 7897. I had been saving it for a special occasion, and thought it was perfect for the Blues Era theme. It’s a 1955’s design and totally fits my personal style.
The dress is fitted through the bust and includes neck facings, side zipper closure, back skirt vent, and length variations. The overskirt is open at center back and gathered onto the waistband and fastens in the front with hooks and eyes. The boned cummerbund fastens in the back with hooks and eyes. The pattern is available in both print and PDF formats in Sizes 6 – 22. Here are some closeup photos of the dress and overskirt.
Fabric Information
Here is where the drama begins. The suggested fabrics are Taffeta, Brocade, Satin, and Crepe. My immediate vision was a floral brocade dress. So, I went to JoAnn’s to see what I could find. The two brocades below caught my eye, but the cream won my heart. Therefore I purchased all they had (about 1/4 yard less than what I needed). The next day I ordered more and drove to a store in a nearby town to pick it up because I wanted to have enough, just in case I made mistakes.
After sewing a muslin (practice garment) and making pattern adjustments, I cut into the “good” fabric and sewed up the dress. I tried it on and my heart sank. In my mind it looked like wedding attire. I put it on my dress form and pinned the overskirt pieces to the side, and that did it. I saw an entire wedding flash before my eyes. So it was an immediate no. There was no way I would show up to Frocktails looking like a bride. Hahaha!
The next day, I decided I would revisit the muslin fabric that I had used to test the fit of the dress. When I sewed the muslin, I really liked the way the fabric looked but I never considered using it for two reasons. First, my heart was set on the cream brocade. Second, the striped fabric didn’t feel like fashion fabric because it was stiff. I purchased it many years ago from Michael Levine Fabric’s in Downtown, Los Angeles before they went out of business. They had a Remnants Department where you could dig through boxes and purchase remnants and discontinued fabrics for for a very low cost. There was no label so I didn’t know the fiber content of this fabric. It felt like a lightweight upholstery fabric that you could use to make window drapes or pillows. So, I purchased it to use as muslin fabric for coats. I never considered using it for a dress because of the stiffness. But when I finished the muslin, it didn’t seem too stiff for the design.
I had no time to shop around for new fabric, so the muslin would have to do. And I actually got excited as I envisioned the dress in the stripped fabric because of the color and vintage vibe. Also, I knew I would be able to wear the dress again after Frocktails for other occasions. Then I became even more excited as I’m in the process of rebuilding my entire wardrobe. So, I started over with the stripped fabric, and created a beautiful 1955’s Vintage-Style dress for Chicago Frocktails. And when I tell you this fabric was perfect for the dress, I mean what I say. It was a perfect pairing of pattern and fabric for the party theme.
Inside the Garment
My initial intentions were to draft and insert a full lining for both the dress and overskirt. However, I ran out of time and decided to skip the lining for the dress. I did try to find a lining for the overskirt but couldn’t find anything lightweight enough in the right color, so I reluctantly decided to forego that part too. Fortunately, the backside of the fabric doesn’t look too bad or take away from the frontside on the overskirt. I used my Baby Lock Chorus and Baby Lock Vibrant machines to sew the dress. Here are some closeup photos of the inside. Unfortunately, I had to photograph the inside of the dress on a hanger because I struggled to get the dress on and off the dress form for the other photos. I actually ripped the seam at the split a little when putting the dress on the form. Then I ripped the seam at the bottom of the zipper while taking if off the form. Goodness! The fabric has no stretch and it’s very fitted to my body. My dress form is a bit larger than me now and I didn’t want to risk ripping the more seams.
Notions Information
The pattern calls for One 12″ zipper, five hook and eye sets, one waistband hook and bar set, 1/2 yard of 1/4″ plastic boning, and 1/2 yard of 3/8″ ribbon or seam binding (optional). I did not use the hook/eye, hook/bar, boning, or seam binding for my dress. I’ll explain why in the next section.
Alterations Information
After sewing the muslin, I determined that I needed to make adjustments to the bodice back because there was gaping on the straps. Therefore, I took out a wedge by creating a dart from the inside edge of the strap, and ended the dart point at the outside edge of the strap. This change distorted the edge, so I trued it by adding tracing paper behind the pattern and connecting from top of strap and blending down to create a straight line. Because the bodice was too tight at the waist, I added 1/4″ to the side seam at the bottom. This gave me an extra 1″ of room in that area.
I also changed the zipper position from left side the center back for easier alterations. I took in about 1″ – 1.5″ on the side seams of the skirt at the waist and merged down to the original cutting line past the hips. This alteration was made on the actual skirt rather than the pattern piece. And because I had intended to line the dress, I opted for a slit rather than a kick pleat. This option would have made it easier for me to create a full-to the edge lining. I would have created the same dress from lining fabric and sewn it to the fashion fabric dress at the neckline. Since I had very little time to finish the dress, I made all the steps easy for me.
I omitted the hook and eye sets because I made my version of the BELT with a fabric covered belt buckle. I attached the overskirt to the belt as instructed, but in my own way. Since I used a belt buckle, I also omitted the cummerbund.
Instead of leaving the center back of the overskirt open, as instructed by the pattern, I closed that seam. I didn’t see it being necessary or a design feature that would be noticeable since the skirt is so full.
Styling Options
The first look is how I wore my dress to the Frocktails party. I wanted to look very polished and feminine. The dress itself did that for me, so I added cream elbow length gloves; pearl necklace, earrings, bracelets, and ring; gold, open-toe sandal heels; a gold rhinestone clutch purse; and of course, the fascinator hair clip. The gloves are very special because they were gifted to me by my friend, Sheila. They belonged to her grandmother who was a very sharp lady and also sewed her own garments. When her Madear passed away, Sheila gave me several pairs of her gloves. I cherish them all and think of her every time I wear a pair.
Since I knew I would be wearing the dress without the overskirt after Frocktails, I made a regular belt too. Oh, I love this so much. I will wear the dress for several occasions throughout the years because it is a timeless garment. I’m very pleased with this addition to my wardrobe. First, here is a look at the dress just plain, with and without the belt.
And here is the dress with all the fixings, both with and without the belt. I’m all ready for the next tea time. Oh my goodness! Somebody, please invite me to a tea party. Hahaha!
Chicago Frocktails Recap
When I tell you we had a TIME, I mean we had a TIME! Oh my goodness! I’m so glad my first frocktails experience was in Chicago. Being in the room with people who speak my language and understand the excitement of seeing a garment that someone made on their own is always so uplifting and encouraging. The first photo is with Carol, the Lead Coordinator of Chicago Frocktails. She and her team did an amazing job planning and hosting the first Frocktails in their city.
If you’re not familiar with frocktails, it’s an event that sewists attend to celebrate being makers. The attendees make an outfit to wear, which is sometimes surrounded by a party theme. We chat, eat, laugh, dance, and show off our garments in a runway fashion show. We form two lines facing each other, creating a runway and anyone who wants to walk or dance down that aisle takes their moment to shine in the garment they’ve made. Oh, the fun, excitement, support, and encouragement that we express for each other in this runway moment is beyond words! If you follow me on Instagram, you probably saw some of the runway excitement as I posted videos. It’s the highlight of every frocktails event. We come in all shapes, sizes, heights, ethnicities, economic backgrounds, male and female, different sewing skill levels, introverts, extroverts and ambiverts. We are literally a diverse community of people with one common bond — we LOVE sewing.
I was so excited to see everyone and take pictures with as many people as I could that I totally forgot to take a photo by myself in my dress at the event. There were so many people there that I barely scratched the surface of getting all the photos I wanted, but I did get quite a few. So here are photos I took with some of the sewists wearing their amazing frocktails outfits. A few of these photos were shared with me by other sewists. The talent in the room was beyond amazing. Everyone did such amazing work on their outfits. I was so happy to see everyone in person.
What do you think?
Have you ever attended a Frocktails event? If you’d like to attend Chicago Frocktails next year, check out their WEBSITE and sign up for their email list to be notified for updates and when tickets go on sale for 2025. I can’t wait to attend next year and would love to meet you. Now, which styling option do you like best? This is my favorite make of 2024 so far. I would love to hear your feedback. Scroll to the very bottom of this page to leave a comment.
Thank you for stopping by today! 💕
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This Post Has 67 Comments
Thank you for sharing all the details on your striped froctails dress. I came across it when I was searching for formal dress overskirts. You did a beautiful job and the dress fit you and the theme beautifully! I especially loved the non-traditional fabric for a cocktail party – super chic.
This may sound silly but I have watery eyes looking at all the pictures and reading how your dress came to be. I love it when a second thought (not a mistake) triumphs!!
I am so excited for you to be able to attend these events and spread your Joy around. Now I need to go look up Frocktails event. 😉
Fabulous!
You and your dress were simply stunning!!!! Absolutely gorgeous and a perfect choice!
Anita, you are such an inspiration to all of us who are sewist. I love all of your garments and appreciate you sharing your craft with the sewing community. This garment for the Frocktails events was, and is, so gorgeous and, as always, you looked stunning!!! Thanks again for sharing and stay blessed.
Bernice
I like all of them ,But the Styling option I like best is the second one with the overskirt, You always do a fabulous job, I love everything about it, Thats your style !
Anita, what can I say. You look absolutely stunning! wow you did it again. I always like the detail description of your sewing. Thanks for making us proud in the sewing community.
Anita,
The dress was Phenomenal and it was a pleasure meeting you again. Love the explanation of the alterations, which is my the dress turned out perfect, & classic for the occasion
Looking forward to seeing your makes from fabric shopping
Anita, Anita, Anita. You mastered that dress. You are the GOAT in the sewing world to me. Just absolutely phenomenal!
ABSOLUTELY Gorgeous!!! The fit, the fabric, the styling was next level! You’re an amazing sewist and you did an amazing job on this make, Loved everything!
Hi Anita,
Love the dress. It looks amazing on you! I signed up for Chicago Frocktails emails and hopefully will be able to attend next year.
Thank you so much for all of the details that you show in your garments. That Frocktails outfit is absolutely gorgeous!!
Girrrl, you have done it again. When you show out, you show off. The dress is so beautiful, so feminine. You did a fantastic job. Well done , be blessed.
Wow you look divine.
Thanks for sharing with us. Very beautiful I cannot wait to make it.
Fabulous.
Anita I have a question for you. How did you treat the seams when you used the brocade for the original dress? I am thinking of using a brocade for the Charlotte Frocktails but I know it freys terribly.
Your pattern hacks and choice of fabric resulted in a show stopper!! This piece is gorgeous and can be worn to a lot of places. As always, your sewing is impeccable and your styling is on top. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much, De! Yes, I plan to wear the dress for years.
Wow!!! Gorgeous!!! Please do a see along:)
Your dress was impeccably made and my favorite of those pictured from the event. Thank you for sharing. It looks like a fun event!
We had a wonderful time together.
What a gorgeous dress and so well made!!!! You were far and away the best dressed person in all of those photos (but please don’t tell any of the others I made that comment😆). The frock tail photos were fun auto see. Wow, there are so many talented folks sewing awesome attire for themselves.
WOW! Gorgeous and stunning!
Anita, you are rocking that outfit. Thanks for sharing the pictures!
The matching of the stripes is perfection, as is your sewing. I love how you show the inside of your garments, because it looks as good as the outside. That is a beautiful dress and you look stunning wearing it. Super job!
Thank you so much, Eileen. I love it when the inside looks clean and neat.
EXQUISITE DRESS! Perfect for the event! You looked stunningly radient! SAVE the cream colored brocade for something special…renewal of vows, mother of bride or groom ( future??), inaugural ball? You never know what’s in your future!
Thank you Francine! Yes, I plan to do something with the cream fabric. I have some ideas for the future.
You did it again. An absolutely beautiful dress and you look great in it. What a talent!! To God be the glory when we work what He has given.
Amen! AMEN! God has gifted and blessed these hands and I’m using them. 💕💕💕
Your outfit is stunning! I’ve never heard of frocktails before, it makes me think there may be a real resurgence of sewers/makers, which may bring back some good fabric stores again. Must have fabric to sew! I’ve become a quiltmaker rather than a garment maker because I was never good at fitting. There may be hope yet. Looks like the frocktails event was a roaring success. Love it.
Thank you. Yes, Brenda, the frocktails was amazing. They’re happening all over the country, and abroad. They seem to be growing and spreading to several cities. This was Chicago’s first event and they did a WONDERFUL job.
Beautiful as always. Great job.
I love the dress and theme. You all looked great.
Thank you Latonya!
You absolutely nailed this outfit. It’s gorgeous. I truly love it! This is so elegant, the gloves, shoes, my, my beautiful.
Thank you so much, Edna!
How cool! So many wonderful clothes and what fun and support! Yay! Those photos are great, congratulations to everyone there.
Anita, I’m sure you’ve heard this before, but you are a stunner. That dress is the bomb (haha!), your alterations so good. Gosh, I’m excited to get sewing again!
Wedding woes. LoL! That explains it! Honestly, I thought the striped fabric was GREAT when you were first sharing the process, thought it was completely wearable, and a was a bit surprised it was a muslin. Thereafter, I wondered what happened. I figured time. Belt? No belt? They both look good. Nicely executed. Thanks for sharing the process from someone who has the pattern. . . .
Anite – Once again you nailed it. I love the striped dress both with the overlay and without. The shoes and other styling pieces like the pearls and gloves is spectacular. I love the application of the ring OVER the glove. I also have to say that I love the cream brocade dress. It, too, is spectacular. Never apologize for the size of your posts. It’s fun to read through all of your mistakes and fixes. Keep them coming.
Barb
Hi Barb! Thank you so much for your kind words. I especially appreciate that you enjoy reading through the posts. I will keep them coming. 💕
Love, love your makes! You look very elegant and in your element! The Frocktail looks like a huge success with lots of fun! I’m glad you went!
Ronda, I was definitely in my element wearing this dress. It is 100% my style. I love it so much.
OMG! Anita you are so talented! I love all of the outfits, but I have to admit yours was the best. You looked so elegant, and your outfit showed you took your time and sewed it with lots of love. The older I get the more I anticipate embracing this mature lifestyle with ease. You wearing those gloves that were gifted to you by your friend just brought tears to my eyes; simply beautiful. The outfit and workmanship were spot on. It would be nice to see how you sewed this outfit in a sew alone. Please say you video it all.
WOW WOW WOW
You’ve gone and done it again!
You’re so clever. And what an eye for you have for detail
And your choice of fabric is once again very well chosen
Thank you, Sue! I’m so happy that I went back to the striped fabric. It was just perfect for this design.
YOUR DRESS IS FABULOUS AND YOU OUT SHINED THE DRESS MAKERS. great job!
Both versions of the dress are fabulous! And I think the striped was just right for the occasion!
Well done!
Beautiful, well-executed dress! Looks like you had a ball at the function.
Thank you Marcia! I really enjoyed myself at Frocktails.
This was an incredible read!!! My favorite feature of life is there is always something new to learn! I’ve never heard of a Frocktail event before. I’d definitely love to attend one in the future!!
Your dress is super gorgeous , feminine and classyyyy!!!😍😍😍 My favorite look is #2!
Yaaaay, Tia! I’m happy to hear that you learned something new today. Yes, put it on your list to attend a Frocktails event one day. Thank you for saying my dress is feminine and classy because that’s exactly the look I wanted to achieve. 💕
It is a fabulous dress! You look beautiful and sophisticated in it. How much fun this event must have been.
Oh, Anita, what a fabulous dress! I keep looking at the pictures and love every way you have styled the dress – I just cannot pick out a favourite! Each option is pure class and elegance. I absolutely love the belt, too and I just know that you will get plenty of wear out of that dress. I’m so pleased you had a lovely time at Frocktails and I have thoroughly enjoyed looking at all the photos and all the fabulous outfits. As a beginner sewist, that gives me something to aspire to. Thank you for posting! I live in Scotland, UK – I so wish we had Frocktaiks here!
Thank you also for photographing the inside of your garments, which I find very helpful. It’s lovely to have a garment which is polished on the inside, so it’s helpful to know what a garment SHOULD look like on the inside.
Love from Jill xx
Thank you so much, Jill! Yes, I will get plenty of wear out of my dress. It was so exciting and fun to see all the beautiful garments that were created for Frocktails. We truly have a community of great talented people. Frocktails is spreading. I’m starting to see them more and more all over, so keep your eye open because one (or several) may be coming to your country. I’m thrilled to know that you appreciate seeing the inside construction of the garments. I love seeing that too. Thank you for being here, Jill. I appreciate you.
You win hands down, so classy!
Dearest Anita!!!
I love, love, LOVE that you completely changed your mind about the fabric. This choice was waiting to be created, by you, for this event.
I would have been a bit nervous with all the seams and stripes line-up, however, after viewing your work, I’ve developed more confidence to make something with variegated stripes. And let’s not bypass the versatility available! This is a perfect travel (set) garment as beautiful, classic dress, belted, skirt attached. My goodness, I can even imagine a pair of slacks and top, with/without the skirt. I’m just saying. LOL! Don’t stop now. Add the pieces. If you don’t have enough fabric, make the same fabric top, solid slacks, with/without same fabric trim with it to pull it in. I can’t wait to see the additions should you choose to make them. No pressure. My brain is just on 100 mph.
I can see how happy this garment made you feel, thereby exuding confidence. BRAVO all around, my Sew Sister. Job well done! I feel proud.
~cw
Thank you so much, Cornelia! Listen, you and I are on the same page. My mind has been racing too on how I can incorporate the overskirt with my wardrobe. My immediate vision was a pair of pants with matching top in cream to match the thin stripe in the fabric. It can also be worn with a jumpsuit, and bodycon dress. Ooohhh, the versatility is abounding and I can’t wait to add more pieces. And YES, I felt happy, glamorous, confident, and radiant wearing my dress.
I thought the overskirt was attached!!!!
The dress was incredibly beautiful and you wore it well.
Thanks for sharing…l always look forward to your posts and am looking into the Chicago Frocktails event next year.
Thank you Careema! Oh, you will love Frocktails. I hope to meet you there.
Oh what an amazing event. Wish we had those in my country.
Oh what a cute event !!! I love all things 50’s … Everyone looked so happy and cheerful !!! How wonderful !!!!
Your dress is a smash hit 😁😉😁 The pattern and fabric are both so unique, and you show them off to a tee !!! Well done, i say !!! Well well done !!! The hat is cute as a button … and Lady, your smile lights up a room 🤩🤩🤩
Thank you so much, Jan!!!!! We were as happy and cheerful as you see in the photos.
Your dress is beautiful. And every one else. I’m so glad you had a good time. All of it was just lovely.
Thank you so much, Debra! Yes, we all felt so happy to be together and I loved seeing everyone’s creations.
Fabulous dress. The fascinator, Oh my! You look wonderful, so vintage.
Thank you, Diane! Yes, the fascinator was the accessory to finish the entire look 💕